週次 |
日期 |
單元主題 |
第1週 |
9/12 |
Introduction |
第2週 |
9/19 |
老師請假,出國開會,擇日補課 |
第3週 |
9/26 |
reviews of basics |
第4週 |
10/3 |
The Hydrodynamic Equations:
Conservation of mass, Equation of motion in ocean
|
第5週 |
10/10 |
放假 |
第6週 |
10/17 |
The Hydrodynamic equations: Equation of motion in ocean |
第7週 |
10/24 |
Scaling of motion, Perturbation method. |
第8週 |
10/31 |
III. Theory of waves: small amplitude gravity wave problem formulation |
第9週 |
11/7 |
III. theory of waves: small amplitude gravity wave problem formulation |
第10週 |
11/14 |
small amplitude gravity wave solution and Gravity-Capillary wave solution. |
第11週 |
11/21 |
Dispersion relation, standing wave and waves on a uniform current |
第12週 |
11/28 |
IV. Engineering properties of GW: particle velocity and trajectory, pressure and pure standing waves |
第13週 |
12/5 |
Midterm Exam |
第14週 |
12/12 |
IV. Engineering properties of GW: partial standing waves and energy transfer.
Transformations of waves entering shallow water |
第15週 |
12/19 |
Transformations of waves entering shallow water
V shallow water waves |
第16週 |
12/26 |
V. Shallow water waves |
第17週 |
1/2 |
國定假日(補假)
VI. Statistics of ocean waves |
第18週 |
1/9 |
Final Examination |